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[mberry]

snap oversteer sounds like a suspension bind issue...you did remove the upper control arms right?

might check how your panhard is traveling. do you have coilovers? im running 300lb i think... im running 275lb in the back of my fox and 400lb front, but i still have the 4link bind-o-matic setup.

[hi5.0]

^^^ +1. And don't know if the GW torque arm can locate the rear axle without the upper links like the MM one? If you have spherical and/or polyurethane upper bushings in the upper control arms, that could be part of the problem. Same goes for tubular or boxed control arms. If 4-link must be retained, stock SN95 upper control arms "should" be used. Or try the "poor man's 3-link". F/R Anti-roll bars been changed too?

[afordmustang]

Ive read up and the bind issues and how the roll centers are off... Im sure its binding at some point, especially with how much articulation the rear has. I have to say though, that Im afraid to take off the upper control arms.. there is too little left holding everything together and Im worried about the rear end flying off!!!

The global west guys said to keep the uppers in but to drill out my upper bushings.... to give it some slope... that seems a little sketch to me too!!!

I have motorsports bushings in the axles and motorsports upper control arms too.

Im wondering if I increase the spring rate a lot and decrease the amount of roll in the rear if that will help it some?

Matt... how does the car ride with your springs?

I could just take the bugger off, but the traction difference and cornering grip is noticeable.

[mberry]

I don't see why it couldn't locate the rear axle solo...

The pictures I found have 4 connection points just like the MM one. How is the Connection to the transmission tunnel area?

With the roll center issue causing snap oversteer you can't fix anything without at least some mod to the upper control arms....

[mberry]

It rides fine with 275s, it's not my DD by any means, and I also have race valved bilstien shocks...so it can be stiff as hell, but surprisingly the ride isn't harsh.

[afordmustang]

The connection for this torque arm is at the bulkhead in the transmission tunnel. It doesnt have a cross bar like the griggs or MM ones. I think that if I were to remove the upper control arms, that it would be a bit dangerous.

Ill just try the higher rate springs and maybe think about taking it off..... then see if I can break her loose in 4th instead of 3rd!! NOT!! Lol!

[afordmustang]

I spoke with Global west (I believe it was Doug Nordin)... He assured me that If I took off the uppers it wouldnt tear up the floor in spite of what some people are posting on the net.  

He did however say that for a street car they recommend leaving the arms in?? and drilling out the upper control arm bushings.

I threw away my old upper control arms... anybody got some with crapped out bushings they want to sell for cheap... Im not drilling out my low mileage motorsports ones.

As an alternative.... dont spherical bearings allow for a wider range of articulation than bushings??

If I went with em on both ends of the upper could I avoid the bind?

It seems that from what he is telling me drilling the bushings give it enough slack that it wont bind?

[mberry]

Drilling works. I still have my OEM uppers...so no spares.

Spherical will actually cause more bind on the uppers.

[SSStang]

Just take off the uppers and give it a try. My car had no uppers with the grigg torque arm and pan hard bar

[mberry]

The roads out here concern me...that's alot of pressure...

[afordmustang]

Maybe Ill try and find some old ones... Im not real comfortable taking them off altogether.. I know its supposed to work.. but it just makes me feel really worried.

This might sound a little strange... but since im not running very large tires... what if I took off the uppers and put quads back on?