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Hawaii Performance Mustangs ForumModsElectronics/In-Car EntertainmentHOW TO: Wire up Early model NE cobra tail lights(Amber turns)
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Author Topic: HOW TO: Wire up Early model NE cobra tail lights(Amber turns)  (Read 641 times)
DarkTrak
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« on: August 21, 2011, 11:00:39 PM »

If you would like to swap your NE GT tails for a set of amber turns from the early model NE Cobras, I just did a set for a new member. If anyone would like this done, holler at me! Wink For those that are adventurous enough, here is what u need and how to do it.


Supplies:

Cobra turn signal relay FoMoCo p/n  5L5Z-13350-AA
Spare tail lamp harness(2)
Spare reverse bulbs(2)
Wire strippers
Solder
Soldering iron
Shrink tube
Lighter
About 15' of 16 gauge wire
Zip ties
Dikes
Razor blade

Steps:

1. Disconnect neg terminal on batt and remove all the carpet panels in the trunk.
2. Remove tail lamp assy(both sides)
3. Remove harnesses from stock GT tail lights
4. Re-install factory harnesses into cobra housings in the corresponding locations, taking note that the GT housings have 4 bulbs openings and the cobra's have 5. So now you should have an empty hole where the amber turns are, with no socket to put there...
5. Cut the reverse lamp sockets off of the spare harnesses (2 wire, black for ground and another color i cant remember) leaving plenty room to strip the wires back and solder.
6. Install bulbs into those new sockets and put them in the amber turn holes. 
7. On the Two outboard brake light sockets(3 wire) cut the wire on the opposite side of the black ground. This is the high side(brake) power, and twist them together both on the socket side and the harness side.
8. Take the socket side of the high side wires that you just twisted together and solder them to a 6' length of 16g wire. This will become your brake light feed and will be shortened later.
9. Take the harness side of the high side wires you just twisted together and solder them to the power(non black) side of the new amber turn socket.
10.  Locate a black wire on the existing harness and cut back a bit of the insulation to reveal the copper wire.
11.  Take the ground(black) wire of the new amber turn socket and strip and solder it to that section you just stripped back on the existing harness.

12.  Cuss like a sailor because you forgot the shrink tube. At this point, either cut the wires and slide shrink tube on, or at the very least use electrical tape or liquid tape.
13. Poke a hole in the rubber grommet on each harness and feed the 6' length of 16g wire you attached through it.
14. Set the tail lights back in place just enough so u can plug the connectors back into the body harness. Do so.
15.  Run the 16g jumper wires along the factory harness towards the drivers side fender well. Zip tie ass needed every 6-10".
16. Follow the harness forward and up until you find the connector that leads towards the 3rd brake light. On that connector find the SOLID GREEN WIRE. doesn't matter what side of the connector you are on, but strip back about a 1/2" section of insulation. Cut the two 16g jumper wires so the reach that section of green wire and solder them to that section. Re-insulate the solder point.
17.  Now the fun begins. Crawl your happy ass under the drivers side of the dash and look up. If you are oriented laying on your back with your feet facing the trunk and head on the gas pedal, ur doing it right. Look left towards the center console. You should see a big yellow relay. Unplug it and replace it with the blue cobra one.
18. Now look at the steering column shaft. On the immediate right of it(towards the kick panel)maybe 3" to the right of the column, there is a grey wiring connecting block. On the lower right, you should see a SOLID GREEN WIRE...the same one you spliced into in the trunk....but here it is the brake light interruption into the turn signal circuit. Cut it. Yes, cut it. And insulate both ends of the cut.
19. Climb your ass out of the floor pan and re-connect the battery.
20. Test everything.
21. Your welcome.
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01stangGT
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« Reply #1 on: August 21, 2011, 11:03:01 PM »

Lulz
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DarkTrak
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« Reply #2 on: August 21, 2011, 11:03:39 PM »

Lulz

Why lulz? I think it's pretty informative.
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01stangGT
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« Reply #3 on: August 21, 2011, 11:05:17 PM »

It is right on the dot I had to force my self to read it cause its pretty long
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dlrs14
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« Reply #4 on: August 21, 2011, 11:05:41 PM »

Good write up.
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HawaiiKid
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« Reply #5 on: August 21, 2011, 11:06:37 PM »

Real good write up Mike!
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01stangGT
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Chanan Brester


« Reply #6 on: August 21, 2011, 11:12:21 PM »

Note new edges are prone to collect water behind tail lights so good protection is key to prevent short in wiring.
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DarkTrak
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« Reply #7 on: August 22, 2011, 12:43:21 AM »

Good point, Chanan!
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mustanginsin
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« Reply #8 on: August 22, 2011, 07:22:25 PM »

Wow Mike. That's a hell of a write up. Thanks for posting that and thanks so much more for sorting it all out and making it work for me. You da man.
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DarkTrak
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« Reply #9 on: August 22, 2011, 07:25:02 PM »

Wow Mike. That's a hell of a write up. Thanks for posting that and thanks so much more for sorting it all out and making it work for me. You da man.

No prob! It's what I do!!
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onederful100
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« Reply #10 on: August 23, 2011, 07:26:38 AM »

you said dikes.  lol.
nice write up.
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« Reply #11 on: September 16, 2011, 01:16:39 PM »

Hey Mike since you seem so good with electronics wanna fix my turn signals lolz j/k Good write up though
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DarkTrak
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« Reply #12 on: September 16, 2011, 02:17:59 PM »

Hey Mike since you seem so good with electronics wanna fix my turn signals lolz j/k Good write up though

Whats the issue?
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01stangGT
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« Reply #13 on: November 27, 2011, 06:49:09 PM »

Mike so u used the factory GT harness and a spare set of harness to wire it all up and to get just the amber to signal a turn.
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DarkTrak
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« Reply #14 on: November 27, 2011, 07:38:10 PM »

Something like that. I'll do it for you if you end up getting the lights.
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