Shelby got to open his present early this year, even though he's been very naughty ALL year...
I know the first things you will say are "pictures?" and/or "dyno?" Therefore:
Dyno sched at BSM for 12/27/11-Tuesday, will make a video of the dyno and upload with pics, more to follow. Stock dyno was 476RWHP on a 90 degree 75% humidty Hawaii afternoon (approx 560 at the fly assuming 15% loss, love it when Ford underates), so hoping for close to 550RWHP or 650 at the fly (w/2.6 pulley, unrestricted exhaust, tune), and due to our current winter "cold spell" (hoping for low 70's). Will take some ice this time, just in case!
Back to the project:
Materials:
VMP pulley puller kit
UPR 2.60 billet alum pulley
UPR 90MM aux idler
Brisk GR12-S Silver Racing Plugs
Lots of sockets and wrenches (mostly 10mm, 5/8", 1 1/8")
Lessoned learned:
1. Takes more than 45 minutes as advertised, lol. Move the intercooler fluid lines and overflow tank out of the way first.
2. Google how to loosen the belt tensioner is before you start. Just stick a 3/8" extension in the square hole and torque clockwise (w/breaker bar, oblong shaped on lower left side on front of block), so you don't feel really stupid like me after you figure it out (it's so simple now, duh).
3. Make sure you have a 1 1/8" socket before you start... it's freaking huge (most socket sets only go to 15/16" or so), O'reilly sells individually for $6 so didn't have to buy a whole set - fortunately live across the street so didn't have to heat up the motor (needs to be cold).
4. Pulling the pulley requires a lot of torque and turns (1/2" drive super size ratchet)
5. When putting the new pulley on, careful not to push the new pulley on too far, or else you have to reset the pulley tool back to the "remove" mode and pull it back off a few turns until it's flush with the blower bearing (or so I've heard, uhummmm). Yes, it's in the instructions, but hard to see how far you pushed the pulley on because the pulley tool is in the way. Next time I'll mark the blower bearing with tape first.
6. After you get the new pulley on, the Aux Idler install (just to the left and below the blower pulley) will take a while - it's only 3 bolts but a super tight fit to get your hands in there, expecially when tightening with an allen wrench about 1/2 turn at a time. May take more than 30 minutes as advertised!
7. Plugs were easy, just took off the CAI tube and air filter and only takes about 30 min (with anti-seize, of course). Props to Ford/SVT for making the plugs so easy to pull/install, even the cylinders next to the firewall. Recommend tape the plug socket to the extension - sometimes they pop loose, will save you a few minutes trying to reattach.
8. Tune was easy, had it preordered/installed on the SCT - email tune from Rick at Amazon Racing in S. Carolina ($185 - unlimited updates for as long as I own the car, only took 2 working days, and runs as well or better than my previous Jon Lund tune @ $200 a pop).
Running great so far, now even more fun on the underside of H1/Nimitz. Definitely noticed an increase in throttle response, made me think about an Innovators West 10-15% overdrive balancer... but for $600-700, ouch! But then of course I'll need (want?) a new heat exhanger... etc... etc. Mileage is same as before (actually averaging 18-19MPG working in Wahiawa... going against traffic both ways). My buddies Chrysler V6 minvan with 200HP gets worse mileage, hahaha.
More to follow. Mele Kalilimaka amigos! If anyone needs an assist or the pulley tool let me know, I'm experienced now, lol. Like if you happen to have a 2012 White with Red Striped GT500 with SVP Performance Package for example... I'm just saying...but if you want to wait until out of warranty I'll understand.
A closing note: what did you get
YOUR Mustang for Christmas? I told my wife the pulley/idler/tune were for Shelby, but we know the real truth.
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